Prague is a city known for its stunning architecture and rich artistic heritage. While the historical statues and baroque sculptures draw plenty of attention, the contemporary and often controversial works of David Cerny have become an essential part of Prague's artistic landscape. This self-guided tour will take you through the city to discover the provocative, humorous, and thought-provoking sculptures created by the Czech Republic's most notorious living artist.
Who is David Cerny?
Born in Prague in 1967, David Cerny rose to international fame in 1991 when he painted a Soviet tank memorial bright pink as a protest against the lingering influence of communism. Since then, he has created numerous public installations that challenge conventions, provoke thought, and often stir controversy. His works are characterized by their bold statements, dark humor, and political commentary.
Cerny's art offers visitors a glimpse into Czech society, politics, and history through a contemporary lens. While some locals find his works offensive, others celebrate his willingness to push boundaries and question authority. Regardless of one's opinion on the art itself, following Cerny's sculptures through Prague provides a unique perspective on the city beyond its well-trodden tourist paths.
The David Cerny Walking Tour
Prague’s streets are also home to some of Cerny’s other creations and taking a tour of his various sculptures and installations is not only a great way to check out some fascinating art work but also an opportunity to explore some different areas of the city.
The free of charge tour with no entrance fees begins at the Franz Kafka Museum (just a 5 minute walk from Malostranska Metro station, A line). To complete the more central leg of the tour should take no more than 1 hour 30 minutes on foot, but of course you can reduce this time drastically by opting to take public transport or Uber. Here is a brief guide to what you can see and where you can see it.
To make it easier for you we have built a custom Google Map with all stops and a walking route which you can view or download in PDF.
This self-guided tour can be completed in one day, though you may want to spread it across two days if you prefer a more leisurely pace. The route covers approximately 7 kilometers in total.
Stop 1: Peeing Guys
This sculpture is a real crowd pleaser. You really can’t go wrong with two butt naked gentlemen peeing into a pool shaped like the Czech Republic. One less obvious element to this piece is that the men actually spell out quotes made by famous Prague residents. It’s even possible to send an SMS and have our friends spell out your own personal message through the medium of urine.
You will find this sculpture in a small courtyard just outside the Franz Kafka Museum in Mala Strana. From here, stop #2 is only a 2 minute walk away through beautiful Mala Strana…
Stop 2: The Crawling Babies at Kampa Park
A tour of the work of David Cerny could never be complete without catching a glimpse of the famous babies. They can be viewed easily from the base of the Zizkov TV tower, however, if you want to get really up close and personal with a giant faceless baby, head down to Kampa Park, where you will find 3 of them on the rampage.
If your feet are feeling a little sore at this point in the tour, we highly recommend stopping off at Mlynska Caffe. This gorgeous little cafe was once a functional water mill but now serves as a cosy yet intriguing venue serving a wide variety of drinks and snacks. From here, stop #3 is around 20 minutes walk away.
Stop 3: The Embryo
This is definitely one that you could miss if you weren’t looking for it. You will find it on the wall of Divadlo Na zabradli on Anneske namesti. David Cerny has never been one for explaining the thought processes behind his work, so we’ll leave you to ponder the symbolism of this one.
To find stop #6 it is necessary to return to the main Narodni street. From here, stop #4 is around 8 minutes walk away.
Stop 4: The Hanging Man (Sigmund Freud)
If you don’t walk around staring at the sky, it’s very easy to miss this guy. It’s a representation of the famous physiologist Sigmund Freud but why he’s hanging around from this Prague rooftop is anybody’s guess.
You will find him dangling at the junction of Na Perstyne and Jilska, close to the Narodni Trida Metro station (line B). Stop #5 is just 10 minutes away.
Stop 5: Metalmorphosis (Head of Franz Kafka)
Metalmorphosis is simply mesmerising. I could stand and watch for hours as its giant metal plates rotate to reveal and unreveal the face of one of Prague’s most famous sons, Franz Kafka. It came to Prague in 2016 and can be found outside of the My Narodni shopping centre.
To find it just walk past the shopping centre down the main Narodni street and enter the passageway between the O2 shop and Humanic. From here you can’t miss it. Now that you have spent some time being mesmerised by giant, spinning metal plates, it is time to find stop #6, which is a short 5 minute walk away.
Stop 6: Svaty Vaclav (St. Wenceslas)
Most people who visit Prague, will at some point see the large statue of Svaty Vaclav (St. Wenceslas), which stands guard over Vaclavske Namesti (Wenceslas Square). Not everyone who visits Prague however, will see David Cerny’s cheeky parody of this famous statue, which hangs from the ceiling of the Lucerna Passage just off Vodickova street.
If you have come this far, we highly recommend taking a few steps further and experiencing the timeless elegance which is the Cafe Lucerna. Simply walk up the stairs and step through the red velvet curtain and into another time. This regal watering hole serves a wide range of drinks and cakes and if you find yourself here during the evening, you may even witness some spontaneous ballroom dancing breaking out.
From here you can hop onto the metro and take the A line 3 stops from Mustek to Jiriho z Podebrad (aslo called “JZP” by local expats due to very hard pronunciation). Being by far the tallest building in Prague, the Zizkov TV tower is difficult to miss and it is here that you will find stop #7. For those people who love to walk, stop #7 is a pleasant 30 minute walk from the Lucerna Passage. Simply walk to the top of Vaclavske Namesti (Wenceslas Square) and follow the road which leads to the left of the National Museum (Vinohradska street). If you keep following this road, it will lead directly to Jiriho z Podebrad Metro Station.
Stop 7: The Crawling Babies on the Zizkov TV Tower
You’ve seen the babies up close, now marvel at them as they crawl up and down a 216m tower. The TV tower is more than just a tower. It boasts a viewing station, a restaurant, a skating rink during the winter and mini golf course during the summer. For more information about what they offer, check out their website.
Here ends the more central leg of the David Cerny tour. At this point you would be perfectly entitled to reward your hard work by enjoying dinner, a cocktail and stunning views in the famous TV tower’s Oblaca Restaurant. However, for those who are truly dedicated to the artistic cause there is one more stop and although it is a little off the beaten track, stop #8 is more than worth the effort.
To get to the next stop we recommend taking an Uber taxi. By public transport it is a long 45-minute journey. But if you willing to do so, it’s tram 5 from Olsanske Namesti to Lihovar from where you can already see the majestic building of MeetFactory.
Stop 8: MeetFactory
Anybody with an interest in the life and works of David Cerny should visit the MeetFactory in Prague’s Smichov district (so named, as it is built in what was formerly a meat factory). It was founded in 2001 by David Cerny himself as a centre for international contemporary art. The gallery exhibits work from both established and emerging artists, in addition to dedicating one of it’s outside walls to large scale street art. The building is a real attention grabber, as its facade is adorned with two giant red cars, hanging upside down and apparently melting away from the beams which support them. To walk under these car on a blustery day is a slightly unsettling experience as they creak and sway in the wind.
The gallery can be accessed by public transport. Simply take the 12, 14 or 20 tram from Andel to Lihovar, then continue walking along the road until you come to a bridge crossing the railway tracks. Cross the bridge and walk back on yourself until you reach the gallery. Gallery is open everyday from 1 pm to 8 pm, entrance fee to the gallery section is usually voluntary.
To get to the last stop take the tram 12 from Lihovar to Andel and from there it is a short 15-minute walk (900 meters).
Stop 9: Brownnosing
Have you ever dreamed putting your head inside a giant stone anus and watching a video of Czech politicians feeding each other, serenaded by the Queen classic “We are the Champions”? If you answered yes, your dreams are about to come true, as one of Cerny’s more controversial sculptures allows you to do just that.
“Brownnosing” is a permanent exhibit at the former FUTURA gallery in Smichov. The gallery is now temporarily closed and can be found at Holeckova 49, Prague 5 Smichov. Entry is free, although there is an optional donation.
Lesser-Known Cerny Works Worth Finding
Beyond the main tour, dedicated art enthusiasts might seek out these harder-to-find Cerny installations:
- Quo Vadis (German Embassy Garden): A Trabant car on legs commemorating East Germans who sought refuge at the embassy in 1989
- In Utero (Futura Gallery): A giant fiberglass sculpture you can climb inside to experience video and sound installations
- Horse (Lucerna Passage Cafe): A smaller variation of the upside-down horse located inside the cafe
- Shark (Holešovice): A parody of Damien Hirst's famous formaldehyde shark, with Saddam Hussein suspended in a tank
- The Piss (Hotel Josef): A smaller version of the Brownnosing sculpture in a private hotel courtyard
Some of these works are on private property or have limited accessibility, so check opening hours before visiting.
Conclusion
David Cerny's provocative sculptures offer a fascinating counterpoint to Prague's traditional tourist attractions. By following this trail of controversial public art, visitors gain insight into the complex identity of modern Czech society - its humor, political skepticism, and willingness to challenge conventions.
Whether you find his works profound or perplexing, Cerny's sculptures encourage viewers to look at Prague through a different lens, discovering a city that's not just a historical museum but also a vibrant, evolving metropolis with a contemporary cultural edge. As you explore these unusual landmarks, you'll discover a side of Prague that many tourists miss - one that's irreverent, thought-provoking, and undeniably unique.
FAQs
Frequently asked questions about David Cerny's art installations in Prague.
David Cerny is a Czech sculptor born in 1967 who gained international notoriety in 1991 when he painted a Soviet tank memorial bright pink as an act of political protest. He is known for his provocative, satirical, and often controversial public installations that challenge social and political norms. His work frequently incorporates dark humor, political commentary, and taboo subjects that push boundaries of conventional art. Cerny's art is controversial because it deliberately confronts sensitive topics in Czech society and politics, including post-communist identity, nationalism, and authority. Some installations feature nudity or scatological elements that some viewers find offensive. Despite or perhaps because of this controversy, he has become one of the Czech Republic's most recognized contemporary artists.
Most of David Cerny's sculptures in Prague are installed in public spaces and can be viewed free of charge. This includes iconic works like the Crawling Babies on the Zizkov TV Tower (visible from outside), the Man Hanging Out (Freud), and the Brownnosing statues outside the Kafka Museum. The Upside-Down Horse in Lucerna Passage is accessible during the shopping arcade's business hours without any fee. A few installations are located within buildings that may charge admission, such as the Kafka's Head (Metamorphosis) near the Quadrio shopping center. For the best value, self-guided tours allow you to see most sculptures for free, though guided tours (ranging from 500-1500 CZK) offer expert commentary and historical context.
A complete self-guided tour of David Cerny's major Prague installations typically takes 3-4 hours if you're walking at a leisurely pace. This includes time spent finding each sculpture, viewing it, taking photos, and walking between locations. The total walking distance is approximately 7 kilometers. If you're pressed for time, you can focus on the more centrally located works (Man Hanging Out, Brownnosing, Upside-Down Horse, and Guns) which can be seen in about 1.5-2 hours. For a more relaxed experience, consider splitting the tour into two days, perhaps dividing between the Old Town/Lesser Town works and the New Town/Zizkov pieces. Keep in mind that public transportation can reduce walking time between some of the more distant installations.
Parents should be aware that several of David Cerny's sculptures contain mature themes, nudity, or potentially disturbing imagery. The Brownnosing sculpture (two men urinating) and some of his other works may prompt questions from younger children. That said, many children enjoy the more playful sculptures like the Crawling Babies and the Upside-Down Horse without understanding their deeper political meanings. The giant Kafka Head with its moving layers is particularly fascinating for all ages. If traveling with children, you might consider researching specific sculptures in advance and creating a modified tour that includes his more family-friendly works. Many parents find that the sculptures provide opportunities for age-appropriate discussions about art, expression, and how different people interpret the same artwork.
Yes, David Cerny continues to create new works that appear in Prague and beyond. His most recent major installation in Prague was the rotating Kafka Head (Metamorphosis) unveiled in 2014 near the Quadrio shopping center. Cerny remains active in the Czech art scene and occasionally debuts temporary installations or contributes to special exhibitions. He also creates commissioned works for private clients and public spaces internationally. The best way to stay updated on his newest works is to check local Prague cultural websites or visit the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, which sometimes features his pieces. While his older installations form the core of the typical "Cerny tour," the possibility of encountering a new piece adds excitement for repeat visitors to Prague.
Yes, several tour companies in Prague offer specialized David Cerny tours led by knowledgeable guides who provide context about the artist, his motivations, and the historical and political background of each piece. These guided tours typically cost between 600-1500 CZK per person depending on group size and duration. Companies like Prague Alternative Tours, Insight Cities, and Urban Adventures feature Cerny's work as part of their alternative or art-focused tours. For the most in-depth experience, private tours can be arranged through agencies like WithLocals or Tours By Locals, where guides can customize the experience to your specific interests. During peak tourist season (April-October), it's advisable to book these specialized tours at least a few days in advance.
For optimal photography of David Cerny's sculptures, early morning (7-9 AM) provides the best lighting and fewest crowds for most outdoor installations. Specific recommendations: (1) For the Man Hanging Out (Freud), late afternoon offers interesting shadows and highlights the precarious nature of the sculpture. (2) The Brownnosing statues are best photographed in late morning when sunlight illuminates the courtyard. (3) The Zizkov Tower Babies are most striking against a blue sky, making midday potentially best despite crowds. (4) The Upside-Down Horse in Lucerna Passage has artificial lighting and can be photographed any time during business hours. (5) For Kafka's Head, the rotating mechanism is most impressive when captured in time-lapse or video rather than still photography. Overcast days actually provide more even lighting for many sculptures, reducing harsh shadows.
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