Prague is a city known for its stunning architecture and rich artistic heritage. While the historical statues and baroque sculptures draw plenty of attention, the contemporary and often controversial works of David Cerny have become an essential part of Prague's artistic landscape. This self-guided tour will take you through the city to discover the provocative, humorous, and thought-provoking sculptures created by the Czech Republic's most notorious living artist.
Who is David Cerny?
Born in Prague in 1967, David Cerny rose to international fame in 1991 when he painted a Soviet tank memorial bright pink as a protest against the lingering influence of communism. Since then, he has created numerous public installations that challenge conventions, provoke thought, and often stir controversy. His works are characterized by their bold statements, dark humor, and political commentary.
Cerny's art offers visitors a glimpse into Czech society, politics, and history through a contemporary lens. While some locals find his works offensive, others celebrate his willingness to push boundaries and question authority. Regardless of one's opinion on the art itself, following Cerny's sculptures through Prague provides a unique perspective on the city beyond its well-trodden tourist paths.
The David Cerny Walking Tour
Prague’s streets are also home to some of Cerny’s other creations and taking a tour of his various sculptures and installations is not only a great way to check out some fascinating art work but also an opportunity to explore some different areas of the city.
The free of charge tour with no entrance fees begins at the Franz Kafka Museum (just a 5 minute walk from Malostranska Metro station, A line). To complete the more central leg of the tour should take no more than 1 hour 30 minutes on foot, but of course you can reduce this time drastically by opting to take public transport or Uber. Here is a brief guide to what you can see and where you can see it.
To make it easier for you we have built a custom Google Map with all stops and a walking route which you can view or download in PDF.
This self-guided tour can be completed in one day, though you may want to spread it across two days if you prefer a more leisurely pace. The route covers approximately 7 kilometers in total.
Stop 1: Peeing Guys
This sculpture is a real crowd pleaser. You really can’t go wrong with two butt naked gentlemen peeing into a pool shaped like the Czech Republic. One less obvious element to this piece is that the men actually spell out quotes made by famous Prague residents. It’s even possible to send an SMS and have our friends spell out your own personal message through the medium of urine.
You will find this sculpture in a small courtyard just outside the Franz Kafka Museum in Mala Strana. From here, stop #2 is only a 2 minute walk away through beautiful Mala Strana…
Stop 2: The Crawling Babies at Kampa Park
A tour of the work of David Cerny could never be complete without catching a glimpse of the famous babies. They can be viewed easily from the base of the Zizkov TV tower, however, if you want to get really up close and personal with a giant faceless baby, head down to Kampa Park, where you will find 3 of them on the rampage.
If your feet are feeling a little sore at this point in the tour, we highly recommend stopping off at Mlynska Caffe. This gorgeous little cafe was once a functional water mill but now serves as a cosy yet intriguing venue serving a wide variety of drinks and snacks. From here, stop #3 is around 20 minutes walk away.
Stop 3: The Embryo
This is definitely one that you could miss if you weren’t looking for it. You will find it on the wall of Divadlo Na zabradli on Anneske namesti. David Cerny has never been one for explaining the thought processes behind his work, so we’ll leave you to ponder the symbolism of this one.
To find stop #6 it is necessary to return to the main Narodni street. From here, stop #4 is around 8 minutes walk away.
Stop 4: The Hanging Man (Sigmund Freud)
If you don’t walk around staring at the sky, it’s very easy to miss this guy. It’s a representation of the famous physiologist Sigmund Freud but why he’s hanging around from this Prague rooftop is anybody’s guess.
You will find him dangling at the junction of Na Perstyne and Jilska, close to the Narodni Trida Metro station (line B). Stop #5 is just 10 minutes away.
Stop 5: Metalmorphosis (Head of Franz Kafka)
Metalmorphosis is simply mesmerising. I could stand and watch for hours as its giant metal plates rotate to reveal and unreveal the face of one of Prague’s most famous sons, Franz Kafka. It came to Prague in 2016 and can be found outside of the My Narodni shopping centre.
To find it just walk past the shopping centre down the main Narodni street and enter the passageway between the O2 shop and Humanic. From here you can’t miss it. Now that you have spent some time being mesmerised by giant, spinning metal plates, it is time to find stop #6, which is a short 5 minute walk away.
Stop 6: Svaty Vaclav (St. Wenceslas)
Most people who visit Prague, will at some point see the large statue of Svaty Vaclav (St. Wenceslas), which stands guard over Vaclavske Namesti (Wenceslas Square). Not everyone who visits Prague however, will see David Cerny’s cheeky parody of this famous statue, which hangs from the ceiling of the Lucerna Passage just off Vodickova street.
If you have come this far, we highly recommend taking a few steps further and experiencing the timeless elegance which is the Cafe Lucerna. Simply walk up the stairs and step through the red velvet curtain and into another time. This regal watering hole serves a wide range of drinks and cakes and if you find yourself here during the evening, you may even witness some spontaneous ballroom dancing breaking out.
From here you can hop onto the metro and take the A line 3 stops from Mustek to Jiriho z Podebrad (aslo called “JZP” by local expats due to very hard pronunciation). Being by far the tallest building in Prague, the Zizkov TV tower is difficult to miss and it is here that you will find stop #7. For those people who love to walk, stop #7 is a pleasant 30 minute walk from the Lucerna Passage. Simply walk to the top of Vaclavske Namesti (Wenceslas Square) and follow the road which leads to the left of the National Museum (Vinohradska street). If you keep following this road, it will lead directly to Jiriho z Podebrad Metro Station.
Stop 7: The Crawling Babies on the Zizkov TV Tower
You’ve seen the babies up close, now marvel at them as they crawl up and down a 216m tower. The TV tower is more than just a tower. It boasts a viewing station, a restaurant, a skating rink during the winter and mini golf course during the summer. For more information about what they offer, check out their website.
Here ends the more central leg of the David Cerny tour. At this point you would be perfectly entitled to reward your hard work by enjoying dinner, a cocktail and stunning views in the famous TV tower’s Oblaca Restaurant. However, for those who are truly dedicated to the artistic cause there is one more stop and although it is a little off the beaten track, stop #8 is more than worth the effort.
To get to the next stop we recommend taking an Uber taxi. By public transport it is a long 45-minute journey. But if you willing to do so, it’s tram 5 from Olsanske Namesti to Lihovar from where you can already see the majestic building of MeetFactory.
Stop 8: MeetFactory
Anybody with an interest in the life and works of David Cerny should visit the MeetFactory in Prague’s Smichov district (so named, as it is built in what was formerly a meat factory). It was founded in 2001 by David Cerny himself as a centre for international contemporary art. The gallery exhibits work from both established and emerging artists, in addition to dedicating one of it’s outside walls to large scale street art. The building is a real attention grabber, as its facade is adorned with two giant red cars, hanging upside down and apparently melting away from the beams which support them. To walk under these car on a blustery day is a slightly unsettling experience as they creak and sway in the wind.
The gallery can be accessed by public transport. Simply take the 12, 14 or 20 tram from Andel to Lihovar, then continue walking along the road until you come to a bridge crossing the railway tracks. Cross the bridge and walk back on yourself until you reach the gallery. Gallery is open everyday from 1 pm to 8 pm, entrance fee to the gallery section is usually voluntary.
To get to the last stop take the tram 12 from Lihovar to Andel and from there it is a short 15-minute walk (900 meters).
Stop 9: Brownnosing
Have you ever dreamed putting your head inside a giant stone anus and watching a video of Czech politicians feeding each other, serenaded by the Queen classic “We are the Champions”? If you answered yes, your dreams are about to come true, as one of Cerny’s more controversial sculptures allows you to do just that.
“Brownnosing” is a permanent exhibit at the former FUTURA gallery in Smichov. The gallery is now temporarily closed and can be found at Holeckova 49, Prague 5 Smichov. Entry is free, although there is an optional donation.
Lesser-Known Cerny Works Worth Finding
Beyond the main tour, dedicated art enthusiasts might seek out these harder-to-find Cerny installations:
- Quo Vadis (German Embassy Garden): A Trabant car on legs commemorating East Germans who sought refuge at the embassy in 1989
- In Utero (Futura Gallery): A giant fiberglass sculpture you can climb inside to experience video and sound installations
- Horse (Lucerna Passage Cafe): A smaller variation of the upside-down horse located inside the cafe
- Shark (Holešovice): A parody of Damien Hirst's famous formaldehyde shark, with Saddam Hussein suspended in a tank
- The Piss (Hotel Josef): A smaller version of the Brownnosing sculpture in a private hotel courtyard
Some of these works are on private property or have limited accessibility, so check opening hours before visiting.
Conclusion
David Cerny's provocative sculptures offer a fascinating counterpoint to Prague's traditional tourist attractions. By following this trail of controversial public art, visitors gain insight into the complex identity of modern Czech society - its humor, political skepticism, and willingness to challenge conventions.
Whether you find his works profound or perplexing, Cerny's sculptures encourage viewers to look at Prague through a different lens, discovering a city that's not just a historical museum but also a vibrant, evolving metropolis with a contemporary cultural edge. As you explore these unusual landmarks, you'll discover a side of Prague that many tourists miss - one that's irreverent, thought-provoking, and undeniably unique.
FAQs
Preguntas frecuentes sobre las instalaciones artísticas de David Cerny en Praga.
David Cerny es un escultor checo nacido en 1967 que ganó notoriedad internacional en 1991 cuando pintó de rosa brillante un monumento de tanque soviético como un acto de protesta política. Es conocido por sus instalaciones públicas provocativas, satíricas y a menudo controvertidas que desafían las normas sociales y políticas. Su trabajo frecuentemente incorpora humor negro, comentario político y temas tabú que empujan los límites del arte convencional. El arte de Cerny es controvertido porque deliberadamente confronta temas sensibles en la sociedad y política checa, incluyendo la identidad post-comunista, el nacionalismo y la autoridad. Algunas instalaciones presentan desnudos o elementos escatológicos que algunos espectadores encuentran ofensivos. A pesar de, o quizás debido a esta controversia, se ha convertido en uno de los artistas contemporáneos más reconocidos de la República Checa.
La mayoría de las esculturas de David Cerny en Praga están instaladas en espacios públicos y pueden verse de forma gratuita. Esto incluye obras icónicas como los Bebés Gateando en la Torre de Televisión Zizkov (visibles desde fuera), el Hombre Colgado (Freud) y las estatuas Aduladoras fuera del Museo Kafka. El Caballo Boca Abajo en el Pasaje Lucerna es accesible durante el horario comercial de la galería comercial sin ninguna tarifa. Algunas instalaciones están ubicadas dentro de edificios que pueden cobrar entrada, como la Cabeza de Kafka (Metamorfosis) cerca del centro comercial Quadrio. Para obtener el mejor valor, los recorridos autoguiados te permiten ver la mayoría de las esculturas de forma gratuita, aunque los tours guiados (que oscilan entre 500-1500 CZK) ofrecen comentarios expertos y contexto histórico.
Un recorrido autoguiado completo de las principales instalaciones de David Cerny en Praga normalmente toma 3-4 horas si caminas a un ritmo relajado. Esto incluye tiempo para encontrar cada escultura, verla, tomar fotos y caminar entre ubicaciones. La distancia total a pie es de aproximadamente 7 kilómetros. Si tienes poco tiempo, puedes centrarte en las obras ubicadas más céntricamente (Hombre Colgado, Aduladores, Caballo Boca Abajo y Pistolas) que pueden verse en aproximadamente 1.5-2 horas. Para una experiencia más relajada, considera dividir el recorrido en dos días, quizás dividiendo entre las obras de la Ciudad Vieja/Malá Strana y las piezas de la Ciudad Nueva/Zizkov. Ten en cuenta que el transporte público puede reducir el tiempo de caminata entre algunas de las instalaciones más distantes.
Los padres deben ser conscientes de que varias esculturas de David Cerny contienen temas maduros, desnudos o imágenes potencialmente perturbadoras. La escultura Aduladores (dos hombres orinando) y algunas de sus otras obras pueden provocar preguntas de niños pequeños. Dicho esto, muchos niños disfrutan de las esculturas más lúdicas como los Bebés Gateando y el Caballo Boca Abajo sin entender sus significados políticos más profundos. La gigante Cabeza de Kafka con sus capas en movimiento es particularmente fascinante para todas las edades. Si viajas con niños, podrías considerar investigar esculturas específicas con anticipación y crear un recorrido modificado que incluya sus obras más amigables para la familia. Muchos padres encuentran que las esculturas proporcionan oportunidades para discusiones apropiadas para la edad sobre arte, expresión y cómo diferentes personas interpretan la misma obra de arte.
Sí, David Cerny continúa creando nuevas obras que aparecen en Praga y más allá. Su instalación importante más reciente en Praga fue la Cabeza de Kafka giratoria (Metamorfosis) inaugurada en 2014 cerca del centro comercial Quadrio. Cerny permanece activo en la escena artística checa y ocasionalmente estrena instalaciones temporales o contribuye a exposiciones especiales. También crea obras comisionadas para clientes privados y espacios públicos internacionalmente. La mejor manera de mantenerse actualizado sobre sus obras más nuevas es consultar sitios web culturales locales de Praga o visitar el Centro DOX de Arte Contemporáneo, que a veces presenta sus piezas. Si bien sus instalaciones más antiguas forman el núcleo del típico "tour de Cerny", la posibilidad de encontrar una nueva pieza añade emoción para los visitantes que regresan a Praga.
Sí, varias compañías de tours en Praga ofrecen tours especializados de David Cerny dirigidos por guías conocedores que proporcionan contexto sobre el artista, sus motivaciones y el trasfondo histórico y político de cada pieza. Estos tours guiados generalmente cuestan entre 600-1500 CZK por persona dependiendo del tamaño del grupo y la duración. Compañías como Prague Alternative Tours, Insight Cities y Urban Adventures presentan el trabajo de Cerny como parte de sus tours alternativos o centrados en el arte. Para la experiencia más profunda, se pueden organizar tours privados a través de agencias como WithLocals o Tours By Locals, donde los guías pueden personalizar la experiencia a tus intereses específicos. Durante la temporada turística alta (abril-octubre), es aconsejable reservar estos tours especializados con al menos unos días de anticipación.
Para una fotografía óptima de las esculturas de David Cerny, la mañana temprana (7-9 AM) proporciona la mejor iluminación y menos multitudes para la mayoría de las instalaciones al aire libre. Recomendaciones específicas: (1) Para el Hombre Colgado (Freud), la tarde ofrece sombras interesantes y resalta la naturaleza precaria de la escultura. (2) Las estatuas Aduladoras se fotografian mejor a media mañana cuando la luz solar ilumina el patio. (3) Los Bebés de la Torre Zizkov son más impresionantes contra un cielo azul, haciendo que el mediodía sea potencialmente el mejor a pesar de las multitudes. (4) El Caballo Boca Abajo en el Pasaje Lucerna tiene iluminación artificial y puede fotografiarse en cualquier momento durante el horario comercial. (5) Para la Cabeza de Kafka, el mecanismo giratorio es más impresionante cuando se captura en un time-lapse o video en lugar de fotografía estática. Los días nublados en realidad proporcionan una iluminación más uniforme para muchas esculturas, reduciendo las sombras duras.
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